Walk into any fabric store—whether it’s a bustling shop in Downtown Los Angeles or a massive chain—and the endless rows of bolts can feel overwhelming. Silk, denim, linen, jersey, rayon… where do you even start?
Here is the secret most experienced sewists know: almost every fabric you will ever sew falls into one of just two major families—knits and wovens.
Once you understand how these two categories behave, fabric shopping transforms from a guessing game into a confident, intuitive decision.
1. The Core Difference: Stretch vs. Structure
To understand fabric, you have to look at how it is made.
Woven fabrics are created by interlacing two sets of threads at crisp 90-degree angles (the warp running vertically and the weft running horizontally). Think of a classic woven basket. Because the threads are tightly locked together, wovens offer structure, crisp edges, and very little stretch—except when pulled diagonally along the “bias.” Common examples include denim, cotton poplin, linen, flannel, and chiffon.
Knit fabrics are created by linking continuous loops of yarn together, much like a tiny machine-knitted sweater. Because the loops can expand and contract, knit fabrics naturally stretch—sometimes in two directions, sometimes in four. Common examples include jersey (t-shirt fabric), French terry, rib knit, sweater knits, and ponte.
2. Why Fabric Family Matters for Sewing Patterns
If you take only one piece of advice from this guide, let it be this: never substitute a knit for a woven (or vice versa) without altering the pattern.
Pattern designers calculate ease—the extra space built into a garment for movement—based specifically on fabric behavior:
Knit Patterns: Designed with negative ease. A fitted t-shirt or legging pattern is actually drafted smaller than your body measurements because the designer assumes the fabric will stretch around your curves. If you cut a knit pattern out of a rigid woven cotton, you won’t even be able to pull it over your head.
Woven Patterns: Designed with positive ease. Since woven fabrics don’t stretch to accommodate your joints when you sit or reach, the pattern includes extra room, darts, zippers, or buttons to help you get in and out of the garment.
Always read the recommended fabrics section on the back of your pattern envelope before buying your material!
3. Wovens: The Perfect Starting Point
If you are brand new to machine sewing, wovens are your best friend.
Best Used For:
Structured Garments: Tailored blazers, wide-leg trousers, structured dresses, and collared button-downs.
Crisp Home Decor: Pillow covers, tote bags, aprons, and quilts.
Why Beginners Love Wovens:
They lie flat on the cutting table and don’t slide around.
They feed smoothly through the sewing machine without pulling or gathering under the presser foot.
You can use a standard straight stitch and standard universal needle.
What to Keep in Mind:
Woven fabrics fray at the raw edges when cut. You will need to finish your seam allowances using pinking shears, a zig-zag stitch, or a serger to keep the seams intact over time.
4. Knits: Comfort Meets Technique
Knit fabrics yield ultra-comfortable, everyday wear like hoodies, athleisure, and relaxed tees. However, they require a few specific tweaks to your machine setup.
What to Watch Out For:
The Pop Factor: A standard straight stitch does not stretch. If you sew a knit seam with a straight stitch and pull the fabric, the thread will snap. Always use a narrow zig-zag stitch, stretch stitch, or a serger.
Needle Choice: Standard needles can cut the threads of a knit fabric, causing tiny holes. Swap your needle for a Ballpoint or Stretch needle, which gently pushes between the yarn loops rather than piercing them.
Curling Edges: Lightweight knits (like rayon jersey) tend to roll up at the cut edges, making pinning and hem stitching a bit fiddly.
5. The Quick “Feel Test” at the Fabric Store
Found a fabric with no label on the bolt? Use this simple field test:
Grab a small section of the fabric between both hands.
Pull it gently across the width (from edge to edge).
If it stretches out and springs back into shape: It’s a knit.
If it barely moves or remains rigid: It’s a woven.
Ready to Get Hands-On?
Reading about fabric is a great start, but nothing replaces touching fabrics in person and seeing how they react under a presser foot.
If you’re in the Los Angeles area and want to build real confidence behind the machine, visit Sew FYI in Downtown LA.